Repair Advice Please

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

I picked up another of these little G.E. mono SS players.

This one has a good cartridge, and mechanically no problems,
other than the usual cleaning.

But, there is a bad crack in the bottom of the cabinet that
houses the amp and changer.
I marked the crack w/black to see it better.

Besides using epoxy on the crack, I want to make a
brace, also.

This is because the top lid exerts pressure on that hinge point,
and I need the crack really stable.

Other ideas ? I have some leftover strong press board from the
rear panel of a console I could drill through, epoxy,
and secure with small screws/nuts.

Or I could find a piece of plastic to do the same.

[electra225]

What I do on radio cabinets is to use some of that metallic air duct tape to reinforce the repair. It is thin and pliable, but it can be overcoated with epoxy and isn't as visable as something thicker. You can use a double or triple layer under epoxy for a strong repair. A piece out of the side of an aluminum drink can works well, if you have room and if the surface to be repaired is flat. The air duct tape is sticky.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

What I do on radio cabinets is to use some of that metallic air duct tape to reinforce the repair. It is thin and pliable, but it can be overcoated with epoxy and isn't as visable as something thicker. You can use a double or triple layer under epoxy for a strong repair. A piece out of the side of an aluminum drink can works well, if you have room and if the surface to be repaired is flat. The air duct tape is sticky.

I have some of that tape. I use it on e-lytic cap cans
to secure the can piece I cut off to remove the guts
for stuffing.

So, you're saying to do initial epoxy on the crack,
let dry, then place tape, and epoxy over the tape,
mutiple times if wanted ?

Thank you for the idea !

[electra225]

Use the tape as the first layer. It is sticky, so just cut a piece and put it on the crack, then epoxy over the whole thing. You can double or triple layer the tape if you want the stiffness for some reason. That crack you showed is not structural, just cosmetic. I'd probably use a single layer of tape, followed by epoxy. Use body filler on the outside if you want to, then sand, prime and paint.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Okay.
The crack though, is structural in the sense that when
the cabinet lid is up, it puts stress on the crack and opens it up.

I'll use several layers of the tape, for sure on this.

Do you have a favorite epoxy product ?

[TC Chris]

The epoxy experts are Gougeon Brothers; they make WEST system epoxies for boatbuilding and every imaginable application. I always keep a gallon of their standard resin and a quart of the UV-resistant resin, plus fast & slow hardeners and various fillers. They provide gobs of information n using epoxies. For plastics, their testing showed that adhesion is improved by running just the flame tip of a small torch (propane or MAPP are the usuals) over the area to be bonded helps, by oxidizing the plasticizers that would inhibit sticking. I've done this. I usually do some rough sanding first, then hit it with the torch.

I usually add some glass fiber fabric--"fiberglass"--to strengthen the repair. It helps spread the forces over a larger area. After the initial repair you could add a wood stiffener to improve the strength--epoxy it down. Do it when the first repair layers are still "green," not completely set up but on the way.

My truck once went to full-throttle idle in the grocery store parking lot. No idea why. To get at the throttle linkage I had to break the plastic under-hood cover off. Then I did the repair described above and it's still holding up 15 years later. And the truck has never misbehaved since.

The Gougeons were innovative guys. They first used epoxies in boatbuilding (iceboats). they basically invented epoxy-based wooden boatbuilding. Their attitude was always "Oh, that's cool... but I think I can make it better." R&D has always been a big part of their operation. The company, now employee-owned, is in Bay City, MI.

Chris Campbell

[Firedome]

West System is the best, I've used it on boats for years. When I fabricate a new wood transom which are usually 1 1/2" thick I take 2 sheets of 3/4" marine plywood and glue them together with WS epoxy, cut it to size with a jig saw, then coat the whole thing with WS. Makes a really strong repair on a very stressed panel. never had one fail. For plastic-epoxy repairs I like a very thin piece of sheet steel and epoxy coat it, apply it, then epoxy over that, worked well on my fridge shelf.

As for plastic motor covers, I just take them off and throw them away. They're there mainly for looks and may slightly reduce noise, but are a nuisance afaic, and I like to be able to see the engine, wires, hoses, etc.

[electra225]

I use the epoxy you can get at ACE hardware. When I mentioned that this crack was not structural, I was looking from the standpoint that no screw holes were directly impacted. Every crack is stuctural to a degree. I would try to make the crack disappear as much as I could from the inside. You may not need to do a lot on the outside.

[TC Chris]

As for plastic motor covers, I just take them off and throw them away. They're there mainly for looks and may slightly reduce noise, but are a nuisance afaic, and I like to be able to see the engine, wires, hoses, etc.

My Ranger's plastic cover is not one of those compartment-wide horrors that we find under the hood now. it's just over the throttle assembly. It actually makes things look better and maybe keeps some of the salt aerosols off the components in the winter. Besides, when the truck had its conniption fit, it was new-ish and I was still trying to keep it looking that way. Now it's like an old pair of jeans or shorts that I'll patch up to maintain function.

Chris Campbell

[TC Chris]

I use the epoxy you can get at ACE hardware.

I always try to keep that on hand for small jobs. Problem is , my store only carries the kind that comes in a sort of twin syringe device. Who invented those? And did anybody ever test them before they went on the market? They squeeze out unequal amounts, and then when you try to re-use them they refuse to work at all. The little squeeze tubes are far preferable, and they work, and they are not available. Do not get me started on corporate stupidity.

I had to mix the tiniest bit of epoxy to hold the tiny needle that supported a small compass card last week. The pressed-in needle had come loose and was wobbling. I tried the newest Ace epoxy--the syringe model. I finally yanked the plungers out and tried scooping out some with a screwdriver. But the resin side had crystallized. I found a tube-style set that I had saved, almost empty but you never know, better save it.... That saved the day.

Seems to me the JB Weld folks were offering plain-old epoxy, not the grey version, but it wasn't in the store the last time I was shopping. Just those damnable syringe devices.

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

We have the best ACE hardware on the planet in our community. They have the good kind of epoxy, the kind in the single tube. I believe it's made by Loktite. It is fairly spendy, but a little dab'll do ya' as the old saying goes. You can use it for wood filler, it's sandable. I don't like it on surfaces I want to refinish. I like using plain old, spendy Bondo for that. I never buy the syringe-type of epoxy. One or the other of the parts is typically dried up, so the other half is no good.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

We have the best ACE hardware on the planet in our community. They have the good kind of epoxy, the kind in the single tube. I believe it's made by Loktite. It is fairly spendy, but a little dab'll do ya' as the old saying goes.

If someone can confirm that epoxy brand name, I would be grateful.

Then I can look about where to purchase it.

I too, find the dual syringe design a royal pain.

Thanks !

[electra225]

Okay, so I'll fall on my sword.

I called the best ACE hardware in the world and spoke with "my guy", the friendly ACE hardware man I always go in to see. They don't make/handle the epoxy I used to use on carburetors and stuff like that in a single tube. I don't know if there is an environmental reason, technical reason, just why they don't sell it anymore. It is all two-part now, which is aggravating to use and the product dries out. Use it once then toss it, whether you use it all or not. He recommended epoxy resin, like you get at hobby shops for small repairs. I found this stuff which is on the order of what you'll probably end up using. It has been awhile since I bought epoxy. Epoxy resin uses hardener, but it is in a separate tube and is like mixing Bondo. You can vary the hardening time by how much activator you use. This stuff is clear, I don't know whether you can get it colored or not, or if that even matters. I had no idea they quit making the stuff I used for years. I think this is the stuff you use over a fiberglass patch to seal it and make it stiff. I have never done that, so don't quote me on that.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334909918093?e ... R9DK_dKwYg

Just as another thought. Maybe an alternative to epoxy. Have you ever used Elmer's white glue? That might work fine for what you are doing. Cheap, you can get it at Walmart, cleans up with water and works effectively. Perhaps you could try that first and see how it works. You might not have to worry about using epoxy resin. Put the glue liberally in the crack, clamp it, wipe off the excess, leave it clamped overnight. Good luck.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Thanks Greg.

I could not find any single stage epoxy for sale, either.

I think I'll still go with epoxy, since I'll be selling this,
and it will provide a strong bond.

I'm going to a big box hardware store to
return an item, and will pick up some epoxy there.

There are some products now that have a mixing
tube, which look pretty good.
All about the same price, so I may give that a try.

[TC Chris]

I think you'll find that the mixing-tube version is a one-shot deal--the stuff will either set up in the tube or oxidize in it, like those stupid syringe devices.

Check out WEST System G-Flex, which is designed to bond to things including plastics, here:

https://www.westsystem.com/products/g-f ... ned-epoxy/

Another option might be a urethane glue. It's very tenacious, as you'll discover if you get it on your skin. Maybe roughen up the inside surface and apply a patch inside.

Chris Campbell

[19&41]

Before you epoxy it, that plastic looks like it might respond to Testor's liquid cement. When I do a crack like that, I use tape to bring together the crack on the outside, then apply the cement to the crack on the inside so it will flow into the crack. it softens the plastic to near liquid and allows it to bond as it dries. If the plastic does not work with it, it will be unaffected and you can still epoxy it.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Appreciate all the input.

I modified Greg's idea, and I bought a Do It Right inexpensive
epoxy dual syringe.
It's a very good product, and more volume too !

I realized the trick to getting the epoxy out measured
easily is to apply pressure to one side at a time.
This dispenses a drop at a time, albeit a bit slowy.

But the viscosity of hardener and substrate are the
same, so it was easy to measure 1:1 ratio.

I glued the crack first, blocked the crack so it would
press together.
After that cured, I placed a piece of aluminum tape onto
the crack line, then epoxied a layer over the tape and
edges.

Now on to cleaning up that record changer, placing a
new stylus, adjust tracking force, and on to the
record shop with it !

[William]

Nice work, and I hope it sells quickly for you.

Bill