Zenith 2g changer service

[Motorola minion]

No different than a V-M 1200 series except for the custom EV-5188 (?) cartridge and stylus (usually a Pfanstiehl # 898). These carts age well, a good thing too, adapting any non-original replacements are tricky at best.

Used in Zenith consoles of 65-71 solid state vintages, these changers often last for years without maintenance, limited only by hardening of the idler pulley-wheel, which still allows for manual operation.

For this reason and others, customers want them repaired. The last one I worked on was in a Zenith Y931, a mid-priced 1968 SS console. It played a tad slow and the changer function was gone due to a hardened and glazed surface of the idler pulley.

Besides an easily-replaced idler, the only other issue was brought on by using the awful lubricant I am used to seeing on BSR changers of the 70s. This is grease was a slightly amber/clear when applied but later hardens considerably and turns dark. Besides the platter bearing below, it was smeared on some sections of the changer mechanism. I used isopropyl alcohol to soak and clean it, before using GC Phonolube (off-white)

BSR grease on VM bearing.jpg (115.14 KiB) Viewed 1917 times

[Motorola minion]

The other method I have used to clean the changer mechanism is to disassemble the tone-arm pivot bearing assembly and thread a wire through it so it can maintain order of assembly. I tied the now loose but wired tonearm down by threading a wire through the RCA jacks and twisting tight.

Working on a cafeteria tray helps you not lose parts that drop out as you disassemble the changer part. Springs can launch off and so can clips, so beware things that go "sproing". The AC switch stays so be careful not to break any of the plastic tabs that hold it to the casting. The risk of this is high if you try to remove the amber plastic style switches, which can be rebuilt with a green plastic housing by V-M music enthusiasts just like those idler pulleys.

The next step is to access a philips screw under the die-cast changer assembly frame close to the tonearm pivot assembly. This may require some finagle of the mechanism to access it, make sure the fiber washer between the casting and changer pan isn't lost, its needed to properly reassemble and align the casting. Next, there are two 5/16" hex heads to remove on the top side of the pan near the spindle. Another caution is that, as the changer assembly drops, the off-on-rej linkage rod needs to be gently coaxed out of the switch operating plate. The record-drop lever also needs to be maneuvered around to pull the casting off.

All this will allow the assembly to drop down so its much easier to clean and service, instead of trying to remove the slider while the casting is still attached to the pan. I occasionally have lingering operational problems after this procedure, problems that were much worse when trying to leave the tonearm alone and manipulate the slider assembly around to get it off the cast frame, all so the cycle wheel can be removed for cleaning.

2g changer service 1.jpg (121.16 KiB) Viewed 1915 times

[Motorola minion]

As the final step, the one-winding, shaded-pole motor needs service just like any other one (Alliance-OEM) also used on RCA and others. This can be done before or after the changer and is a completely independent operation that almost always cures speed issues along with a rebuilt idler.

2g service 2.jpg (111.78 KiB) Viewed 1914 times

I highly recommend the high-rpm "turbine" oil Supco sells at HVAC jobbers. After pulling motor apart, cleaning and oiling, proper alignment of the assembly can be confirmed by applying power then counting how many seconds the shaft spins AFTER power is removed. 7 seconds seems to be the right amount, usually a significant improvement. After assembly, platter speed can be checked with a strobe disc and incandescent AC light source.

[hermitcrab]

On every VM built changer I have ever worked on , the speed seems to be right on the Money after rebuilt and lubed ... I just finished a 1295 or a 1875 which ever number you want to go by, and the speed is almost perfect ... even better than a couple of high dollar duel TT''s I have

[Motorola minion]

Funny thing that when CU tested a bunch of consoles in 1962, they claimed most of the ones using V-M players ran a bit fast