Sony model 300 "Stereoscope" R-R tape deck

[electra225]

This is the Sony tape deck I have. This topic is a follow-up to one earlier. Roger needs parts for one he has, so I dug this one out. I powered it up on the dim bulb and Variac and I can truthfully say it "powers up". Not much more than that, to be frightfully honest. No smoke and it didn't blow the fuse. It pulled 110 watts, which was probably pretty high. The motor does not run, and, in fact, appears to be seized. The rubber wheels are all shot and will need to be replaced if this thing ever plays again. One of the guide felts is gone on one pressure pad. It is in fairly good physical condition over all, I'd say. When you turn it to play, there is a lot of oscillation and squealing. Both volume controls are so dirty as to nearly be open. I see at least two tubes. This appears to be a model that you unbolt the chassis and withdraw it from the cabinet to work on it.

[TC Chris]

I had one of those, at least the innards, minus case. It looked like it was built to mil-tec standards, an early Japanese effort to produce very high quality electronic goods. When I moved and had to downsize, I sold it or more likely gave it away (gave away lots of good tube stuff that I now regret, but I was moving 185 miles away and had to pare down. The Sony should be a good performer.

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

How many tubes would I expect to see in this thing? This will need a total overhaul if it ever works again, both electrical and mechanical. I assume there are parts for this thing? Do you know of a reliable parts source other than ebay?

[TC Chris]

I'll bet the tubes are AOK. Going by memory here, the caps and resistors were all in parallel rows on circuit boards, Western Electric style, so service should be easy. Te motor will need oil and maybe starting cap? If the idlers are hard, maybe go the O-ring route?

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

Perhaps "idlers" are not what I meant. Capstan drive tires are more accurate. They are thick rubber tires that drive the capstan right off the motor. One for forward, one for reverse, maybe? I don't see how an o-ring would work on those. I'd say they would have to be replaced or rebuilt, but I don't know that.

[TC Chris]

My TC-350 has one motor that drives the capstan and also the takeup/rewind reels. It has a few idlers under the deck to power those. Last time I looked at my 350 they were looking a bit cracked. If they were dead, I'd be inclined to try O-rings as new tires. It worked on my Lenco turntable.

Chris Campbell

[William]

I had a Sony 350 and used it for years and years. Had it rebuilt once and when it needed it again it took it in to the local repair shop and dropped it off. While I was there, I spotted a refurbished hi-end Sony three motor unit. I made an inquiry, traded in the 350 and walked out the door with the new to me fancy Sony. In some ways I wish I still had the 350. It was a great performer, not complicated to use, and was fairly light weight compared to the fancy Sony I know have. It's model TC-558 and I'm being told that it needs a head as I do not have highs in the left channel.

Bill

[Firedome]

These are more elaborate models than my 250a deck, I'd think well worth fixing. As far as I know Sony r to r always had a good reputation, even if not considered the best, so I don't get the disdain some seem to have for them. Our wedding service was recorded on my friend's 250 in 1971 so I'd like to get this one from my uncle fixed up. Being a rather BOL machine may work in it's favor, sometime simpler is good.

[electra225]

You may have noticed in the pics I posted that there is a spare wheel laying on the tape deck. That was under the cover when I took it off. I can't find where it goes. Any ideas?

[TC Chris]

Somebody probably replaced the pinch roller and kept the old one as a backup. By the way, just in case you're not familiar with the design, that one looks like it has a tape sensor to the left of the head cover. If there's no tension on the tape, the lever falls and the machine stops. If I'm right about that, nothing will go unless you prob a piece of stiff paper between the two posts and the lever.

And in that photo of the 250 deck, very close in looks to my 350, ain't that the very definition of good industrial design? Simple, uncluttered lines but highly functional. It's just a handsome machine.

Chris Campbell

[William]

It looks just the 350 I had too.

Bill

[electra225]

I flopped this thing up on the bench this afternoon with the intention of removing saveable parts, like speakers and tubes, maybe the power transformer, then tossing the rest. It lights up and comes on, but nothing moves. It pulls 100 watts on the KAW. I judge that to be a tad high.

I had no idea of how to get the chassis out, so I started removing any exterior screws I found. Four screws hold the chassis into the cabinet. Two under the area of the fan for the motor and the two that hold on the front two feet. I tipped the cabinet up on its front and slid the chassis out, after I unplugged the speakers. Easy-peasy. Very logical assembly and very well built. After I got the chassis out, I abandoned my idea of parting it out. The motor tries to turn, but is so stiff it can't start. There is a healthy-looking start cap. I assume if it was bad, the motor wouldn't turn at all and it would draw more current, maybe even pop the fuse. I can turn the motor by hand when it tries to run, but it still won't go under it's own steam. I'll look around and figure how it comes out. I found six tubes so far. 2 each 6AU6, 2each 12AD7, an obsolete type to be replaced by 12AX7, and 2 each 6AQ5. I haven't found a rectifier yet, either tube or solid state. Everything is covered by a perforated metal shield. I'll have to remove more of the shields and see if there are more tubes. There are a couple of springs used for fast forward and rewind that are disconnected. I'll need to research those.

[TC Chris]

I cringed when you said you were going to part it out. I had one of those sans case & speakers, a trash pile find. Made a case to hold it. It struck me as being of unusually high quality, that period when the Japanese electronics makers were determined to prove they could me it cheaper AND better. It had a mil-spec look to it.

Sadly, it was one of the items I gave away when I moved 30 years ago. Still regret it.

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

If I can get it sorted so it will work dependably, I'm going to try to sell it. If I can't get it sorted, it gets parted and dumped. I don't have room for things that won't work, just because I hate to toss them. Shipping to someone who could use it would be a fortune, heavy as it is. Depending on how much I have to put into it to get it going, it will be cheap enough to entice someone to take it and enjoy it. I have at least one tape deck that works, which is more than plenty.

[Firedome]

Or rather than part it just sell as-is and hope someone will tackle it and keep it intact?

[electra225]

Are you volunteering?

[TC Chris]

Are you volunteering?

Chris might raise his hand if you are really eyeing the dumpster for this cool device.

Chris Campbell

[Firedome]

Ya not me! R to R are not in my wheelhouse, I can barely handle an AA5.

[electra225]

IF (and that is a big "IF") I decided to ship something this heavy, I'd take it to UPS, (or other shipper of your choice) let them crate and ship and insure it. It would cost what it costs. I have neither the tools, materials, nor desire to crate and ship it myself. I'll bet it'd cost $100 to ship this thing back east. I don't need it, I'd like to have someone who would appreciate it have it. I would send whoever wanted it the phone number for the closest to me UPS store and let them handle it. I would drop it off there and you would be on your own. That may sound abrupt, but that's as honest as I know how to be. I could tinker with it to see if I can get it to work, or leave it like it is.

[electra225]

I got the motor so it will run. It was really stiff. I looked around and found two lubrication tubes from the motor bearings to up under the capstan drive. I decided to squirt WD-40 into those tubes and see what happened. WD-40 ran out on the bench, but when I started turning the motor, it started turning easier. I connected the tape deck to the KAW and Variac, then turned on the power switch. With a little nudge, the motor started. It made more noise than I thought reasonable. I decided to try a good shot of turbine oil in those oiling tubes. The motor ran a few seconds, then settled down to quiet operation. It will now start and run without a nudge. The wife thinks it has been at least 20 years since I had this tape deck in operation. I reckon it was just dry and needed some TLC. I'll get it back together then see if it will play tapes.