Classic Hifi Care

This Thanksgiving I hooked up with some family in southern Indiana at my niece's house. After dinner my niece says I have a surprise for you... down in her walk out basement sat a magnavox. Her neighbor was having a rummage sale and gave it to my niece , and this was 4 years ago!...This is a model 1RP659. Has all the original paperwork from the sale on 12/1/65... cost with tax $606.90. I cringed to myself because I really don't have room for another one, but after she went through all this trouble to hold and store it for me , what could I do? I graciously thanked her and quickly measured the depth , as the weather was rain/snow and I had over 400 miles to drive home. fortunately it fit under the tonneau cover... selling in december it might have been a new 66 model. I have not looked it up yet , this appears to be one of the 100 watt versions with the enclosed speaker baffles adding about 100 pounds to it. I did not look at it too closely , but the only thing I saw was the record arm holder is snapped in two. Right now it lays in the back of my pick up, on it's back because I don't have any idea where to put it hence no pictures of it yet... can't go in the basement because it weighs a ton ... until I make room somewhere I hope I don't need to haul anything in the truck anytime soon...

It sounds interesting, Elton, I can't wait to see photos. Good luck getting it into the house.

Bill

Interestingly.. I can't find that model in any of the catalogues on this site... then I found another tag with RP690? no luck on that one either , this is the first time I found a Magnavox where the owner took advantage of the needle warranty in 1972 , and had the envelope from Magna-par that had the replacement needle.

What town in southern Indiana? I probably hauled coal or grain from, to, or through it.....

I am interested in pictures, too. If it is a real 100 watt model, it should kick some serious tail......

Even with no "lamps and ligties", vacuum bulbs, it would be well worth making space for. Ask Bill to show you how to stack.

"There's always room for just one more".....

Actually, Elton does know how to stack, and he is really good at it too.

Bill

electra225 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 27, 2023 11:47 pm What town in southern Indiana? I probably hauled coal or grain from, to, or through it.....

Greg, just about 10 miles north of Louisville , called Henryville/Memphis , the town made national news around 10 years ago when a massive tornado ripped through town demolishing the whole school minutes after the school buses left with the kids for the day , if the storm had hit a few minutes earlier, the school had 750 students in the building, a few teachers still there hid in the innermost rooms ... the school was completely flattened except for the couple rooms where the teachers took refuge in ... it was a miracle there were no deaths ....my nieces house became the shelter for one bus load of the kids to take cover in when the storm passed by...

Here it is out of the truck... unfortunately no tags on the back to confirm the model # except what the sales receipt says ... in good shape overall except the record arm being broken ... will try to braze it or put a request in the wanted to buy section .... also shows the paperwork for the new needle ordered in 72.

I may have the part you need. Let me look upstairs....

well I believe the sales receipt is wrong on the paperwork....inside the speaker housing I found model 2ST690... which should be a 64 model , but since the download section is blocked to me , I can't tell for sure , that would align with why it has the early changer instead of the narrow grey tone arm changer...

maxidyne wrote: ↑Tue Nov 28, 2023 6:24 pm I may have the part you need. Let me look upstairs....

I placed a request in the WTB section , let me know if you have one you want to part with
Thanks

If you can't find a replacement, a repair ought to be easy. Use an epoxy like JB Weld on the underside where it cannot be seen anyway. Rough up the plastic a bit; wave a propane torch flame lightly over the glue-up area, and then apply epoxy.

Chris Campbell

Are these held on with a roll pin, or a tiny allen head screw?....

Looks like you'll have to use a allen wrench set as a detector.

the pin requires a 3/32 punch to remove it...I hope the JB weld can handle me pounding the pin back in the arm

Can you push it back in with a small C-clamp?

Chris Campbell

On the same vein as Chris's suggestion, you could also use Vise-Grips or even a medium sized pair of water pump pliers to squeeze it back in, you wouldn't have to pound on it.

as predicted the JB did not hold , it came apart on its own just by gravity on the changer, and as suggested putting metal underneath as reinforcement just interferes with any 12 in record you put on it , if it comes down to it , my son's 3d printer can handle something that size ... but no rush now.... as I discovered the power transformer is kaput on this beast ...when I got it, the power cord was cut off, so I wired one on and tried it... nothing.... pulled the chassis and jumpered the primary and no output on the secondary... so now I need to look for one of those , fortunately it is a simple center tapped 48 volt secondary with a 6.3 for the pilot lights... should be an easy find as long as the current capabilities are there so as it stands this one is a beached whale for now...

If you want to try again.... If it's a metal arm, make sure the underside where you are applying the epoxy is brushed clean of paint. Gluing over paint gives a bond that is only as strong as the paint. If it's plastic, use the Gougeon Bros. recommendation about passing a propane torch briefly over your roughened plastic surface. From one of their manuals:

"Typically, epoxies don’t adhere well to many plastics. But, with
WEST SYSTEM G/flex® Epoxy and proper preparation, you can
achieve excellent adhesion to most plastics.
Sand ABS, PVC and polycarbonate plastics with 80-grit sandpaper
to provide texture for improved adhesion. Some plastics like
HDPE and LDPE (high-density and low-density polyethylene)
benefit from flame treating. First wipe the bonding surface with a
solvent to remove contamination and dry with a clean paper
towel. Pass the flame of a propane torch across the surface quicky.
Allow the flame to touch the surface, but keep it moving—about
12 to 16 inches per second. The flame oxidizes the surface and
dramatically improves adhesion with adhesives and coatings ap-
plied over it.""



Try their G-Flex epoxy:

https://www.westsystem.com/products/g-f ... ned-epoxy/

They are a great, innovative, employee-owned Michigan company.

Chris Campbell

Chris, if you have used that product to advantage, why not list it on the Supplier's board here on the forum? It will be easier for readers to access the information that it is buried in a topic.

TC Chris wrote: ↑Mon Dec 11, 2023 11:41 pm If you want to try again.... If it's a metal arm, make sure the underside where you are applying the epoxy is brushed clean of paint. Gluing over paint gives a bond that is only as strong as the paint.

The arm is metal... pot metal I think, I used a mini grinder on the bottom to roughen it up, and used a 1in" thin strip of 22 ga to help reinforce the joint ... it held for about 4 days , The problem is the break is right at the post , so the weight of the arm is always pulling on the joint ... I think it has to be replaced with a donor , or as stated I will have my son 3D print one out ...it is only needed if you stack LP's... it is not needed on a micromatic for 45's