Classic Hifi Care

I replaced the distributor in my '96 F 150 5.0 . The truck is up and running, but when things work out acceptably, with no definite rationale about it, I worry if everything's correct. On the 5.0 in my old Mustang, IIRC, one was to set the timing with the SPOUT connector disconnected (The electronic equivalent on removing the vacuum advance hose from the distributor.) to 10 degrees BTDC. I can find no literature that tells anything about this. I guess someone else was of two minds about this as well, as the hold down bolt was nearly loose.

There is typically a sticker on the radiator core support or on the fan shroud that gives that information. On GM cars, I would always disable the advance, set the throttle at 1200 rpm, then set maximum timing at 36 degrees. On yours why not pull the SPOUT connector, set it to 10 degrees BTDC. See what you get. I can't imagine you couldn't find the information you need in Mitchell On-Demand or on All-Data. You might ask a shop if you are familiar with one to see if they'd look it up for you. Do you believe you solved your problem? Sometimes it's better to be lucky than to be good. You eliminated everything else. The distributor was all that was left. Good luck.

I don't think it it is quite right. Also the battery has just developed a bad cell, so I'll have to get that taken care of as well.

I bought the battery at Autozone in 2018. The warranty printed on the receipt said it had a 36 month full replacement warranty and a 5 year prorated warranty. I took it there. Clerk 1 checked the warranty online and on the receipt and said it was out of warranty and the replacement would be $189. I told her there should have been a proration on the full cost. She went in to the back, then out came either the supervisor or someone who should have known better. She looked at the two, and said she would be back with a new battery. I reckoned if both were going to be wrong on it, I might as well go with # 2.

So you got a full replacement for free? Wow, you can't beat that.

Just had to replace the battery in wife's car it was original from 2013 ... I could not believe the price ... around 200 bucks .... what happened to the days of turn in core and pay 50 bucks ?...

For some reason the price of batteries has skyrocketed over the last couple of years. I have watched the price climb by 20-30 dollar increments every 3-4 months. Someone, somewhere, thought they were not making enough money I guess. Or, they are setting the prices for when one needs to replace the batteries in ones electric car.

Bill

Do the electric vehicle batteries use lead as a principal component ?

That's a good question, Rex. I have no clue. I found this using Mr. Google:

http://www.solar365.com/green-homes/ele ... ctric-cars

Bill

Lithium Ion cells are becoming the preferred chemistry. It is the cell that has made packs that can provide superior capacity, rapid charging and a decrease in weight. That is why there was such a change with vehicles that use them, like the Tesla.

The timing alignment is 10 degrees before TDC with the SPOUT removed. So now it looks like it will rain for the rest of the week. Gas'll be $5 a gallon by the time I get it done.

hermitcrab wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 2:48 pm Just had to replace the battery in wife's car it was original from 2013 ... I could not believe the price ... around 200 bucks .... what happened to the days of turn in core and pay 50 bucks ?...

Wow. The original battery in my 2005 Ranger died last winter when it was about 15 years old. I drove straight to the auto parts store and bought a new one for about $100, as I recall. Maybe that's not a 15-year model. They gave me tools to replace it in the parking lot. It was the coldest day of the year, of course, and the truck actually started from cold with a bit of help but then refused to restart at the grocery store.

Chris Campbell

Have you driven it yet with the timing set like you have it? Does it run alright? If so, I wouldn't worry about it.

I have. It's not right. I adjusted it between TDC and 10 before with the SPOUT disconnected and it became a bit rough at each. It won't be much trouble to reset it with a bit of dry weather. The distributor has the mount plate for the old TFI and I took a 4 inch crescent wrench and used it as a handle to rotate the distributor. The trick is seeing the timing marks and indicator through a 2 inch hole in the stuff on the engine, while shining the light down the same hole.

Have you checked with All-Data or Mitchell as to what the correct timing spec should be? If it runs rough at TDC and at 10 BTDC, logic would say the correct value would be somewhere in between? Actually being able to SEE the timing mark many times is the tough part.

I would imagine that it will smooth out when I set it at 10 before with the SPOUT disconnected, then reconnect the SPOUT so the processor retains control of the ignition timing. I marked the TDC as a full length line and the 10 before as a half line, using appliance white epoxy touch up. It stands out nicely.

It was finally dry again, so I set the timing on the truck. I checked it with it warmed up, SPOUT in and it was reading TDC. Same with the SPOUT removed. I then removed the intake plumbing and loosened the distributor holddown. I removed the spout and brought the distributor to 10 BTDC. It ran crappy before and not so crappy afterward. I tightened the distributor down, re installed the intake hoses and replaced the Spout. It started easily and idled smoothly. I drove it over to Costco for some gas. it accelerated smoothly, cruised without pulling back. At each intersection, it would sit and idle so smooth and quiet, one would think the engine died.I then drove it home. I let it sit for the 45 minutes it took me to get ready for work and went back out to start it. It cranked for 10 seconds and barely caught.

So, then, you are saying it's NOT fixed?

It looks like it.

Bummer.

Your truck engine has port fuel injection doesn't it? Have you had a NOID light on the injector harness to verify injector signal when cranking? Just curious.