RCA 45-EY-3
Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2026 12:36 am
I took on this project for a nice customer who said he really
wanted it working.
The player was not real clean when received !
I've never worked on an RP-190 changer, but I heard they
were not that difficult.
The amp is a hot-chassis 3 tuber, so I didn't worry about
sustituting out a lower output ceramic cart for the dead
crystal cart.
Thanks to Mr. Chris Cuff (rest in peace) for his series on the
RP-190, that part was fairly straight-forward.
Chris did mention some important service tips that you would not
know about from looking at an RP-190 manual.
The bottom plate of the cabinet is attached with 4 long
narrow bolts.
The amp is seated in the bakelite case, held in place with 4
bolts, attached to brass inserts nicely molded in the cabinet.
The changer sits on 3 rubber cone cushions secured with bolts
and washers.
I wasn't sure how I'd remove the amp/changer, as they are
hardwired together.
I finally saw that once the mounting bolts were removed, the
changer and amp could be moved through the cabinet
changer opening for service.
Taking the switch along with the motor, off the motor board
gave me more wire length to service the amp.
I don't cut/splice wiring unless absolutely no other recourse.
The 2-value paper covered capacitor can sat in a standard
type clamp.
The clamp was used to place the 2 new
replacement e-lytic filter caps secured with a cable tie.
I replaced the 120 ohm sand power resistor, as I've seen them
deteriorate.
The tube dates were from mid 1951, so I would place
selling year at 1952.
The amp has acceptable hum, and I re-flowed
many connections. Resistors all checked wnl,
and tube voltages well within schematic values.
wanted it working.
The player was not real clean when received !
I've never worked on an RP-190 changer, but I heard they
were not that difficult.
The amp is a hot-chassis 3 tuber, so I didn't worry about
sustituting out a lower output ceramic cart for the dead
crystal cart.
Thanks to Mr. Chris Cuff (rest in peace) for his series on the
RP-190, that part was fairly straight-forward.
Chris did mention some important service tips that you would not
know about from looking at an RP-190 manual.
The bottom plate of the cabinet is attached with 4 long
narrow bolts.
The amp is seated in the bakelite case, held in place with 4
bolts, attached to brass inserts nicely molded in the cabinet.
The changer sits on 3 rubber cone cushions secured with bolts
and washers.
I wasn't sure how I'd remove the amp/changer, as they are
hardwired together.
I finally saw that once the mounting bolts were removed, the
changer and amp could be moved through the cabinet
changer opening for service.
Taking the switch along with the motor, off the motor board
gave me more wire length to service the amp.
I don't cut/splice wiring unless absolutely no other recourse.
The 2-value paper covered capacitor can sat in a standard
type clamp.
The clamp was used to place the 2 new
replacement e-lytic filter caps secured with a cable tie.
I replaced the 120 ohm sand power resistor, as I've seen them
deteriorate.
The tube dates were from mid 1951, so I would place
selling year at 1952.
The amp has acceptable hum, and I re-flowed
many connections. Resistors all checked wnl,
and tube voltages well within schematic values.