Classic Hifi Care

This one looks the cabinet would need refinished but for $40 it would be worth it. Somebody needs to get it before it gets parted out for the amp.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... e15a8429dd

Nice looking unit. It is hard to tell, at least for me, does it have sliding doors on the front. I looks like the record changer side got wet, or maybe baked in the sun. Is this close to you, Danny? Never mind, I just shrunk the map down it is south of Toledo.

Bill

That is a 419, which is a TOTL model without remote control. That would have the 27" TV set. The picture tube alone is worth that money. The cabinet on that one is better than mine was and look how it turned out. Everybody who collects console stereos should have a Stereo Theater. They are amazing devices..

And, yes, Bill it does have doors that slide over the picture tube. Those panels with the handles slide in together. You can see the track in the cabinet down below the picture tube.

I just took another look and if I really stare I can see the tracks through the dust. This is like yours, Greg, just a different cabinet and you have the remote.

Bill

That one has identical guts to mine except for the remote control. Since remote control is basically worthless nowadays since you run the TV on channel 3 all the time, not having remote control may actually be a benefit by reducing complication and the rat's nest of wiring in the cabinet. I'm glad mine has the remote just for the bragging rights.......

40 bucks is a steal. Hope it finds a home (with room)!

William wrote: ↑Sun Jun 08, 2025 11:31 pm Nice looking unit. It is hard to tell, at least for me, does it have sliding doors on the front. I looks like the record changer side got wet, or maybe baked in the sun. Is this close to you, Danny? Never mind, I just shrunk the map down it is south of Toledo.

Bill

Bill, I think so far you are the closest one to the stereo theatre. I read that a wise man once said, "there's always room for one more." There would be plenty of room to stack on top of this one.

I wonder who that wise man is........

I think that wise man is not so wise when it comes to a stereo theater. TV is way above my pay grade and besides I have an RCA Home Theater that was my grandparents, it is just missing the TV part which works out well as I have my component system where the TV once lived. I do hope someone who will respect, restore, and cherish the Maggie ST ends up with it. And actually, Elton is probably closer than I am.

Bill

TV repair is much like radio repair, adding high voltage and a picture tube to use for an oscilloscope. Color TV is tougher but it's not hard to find someone to help you....

William wrote: ↑Tue Jun 10, 2025 11:45 am I think that wise man is not so wise when it comes to a stereo theater. TV is way above my pay grade and besides I have an RCA Home Theater that was my grandparents, it is just missing the TV part which works out well as I have my component system where the TV once lived. I do hope someone who will respect, restore, and cherish the Maggie ST ends up with it. And actually, Elton is probably closer than I am.

Bill

I'm pretty sure we have a stereo theatre expert here who would be willing to help you, if needed.

I really hope that someone gets it that wants it for what it is.

Okay, Danny, since this is your topic........

Are you going to clue us in on the engine in your avatar? Looks like a Ford small block of some sort. Do you own the car it goes in? Inquiring (and just plain nosy ) minds want to know......

electra225 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 11, 2025 3:16 pm Okay, Danny, since this is your topic........

Are you going to clue us in on the engine in your avatar? Looks like a Ford small block of some sort. Do you own the car it goes in? Inquiring (and just plain nosy ) minds want to know......

I read where it was required for new members to have an avatar so I didn't think it would be fair for me to not have one. For some unknown reason I chose this picture for my avatar. It is a small block Ford engine that I built to have a similar look to a 289 HI-PO. It is a 5.0 roller cam block and it's bored and stroked to 347 CID. I have a 1966 Mustang Fastback that I've owned for many, many, many years that didn't have the original engine, so I decided to go with this one.

The Mustang is almost entirely apart and work on it is moving at an amazingly slow pace because it's really hard to get myself motivated. I thought I had all the sheet metal work done, but I did find one place that needs some attention. If I ever get the Mustang done it will be the original color (silver blue metallic) with pony seat covers (blue and white) which was what the car came with new. I do plan on adding the GT options to it if I ever get around to doing it. It will look almost like a stock Mustang except for the engine, SS Cragar wheels, BF Goodrich tires and a 9" rearend. I do plan on using a C4 auto which is what came in the car new. I got the rearend out of a 1958 Ford and added it because the 347 might be too much for an 8" rear that came stock with the car.

The Mustang needs all new paint. I painted the engine bay late last year, but I'm not satisfied with it so I'm going to redo that. I've been buying parts for this car for a long, long time and actually have most of what it'll need to complete it. That is if it ever gets completed.

If it makes you feel any better, I bought a 1938 Buick in 1966 and it remains "in progress" (a phrase meaning "not moving very fast").

Chris Campbell

I follow a Mustang restorer on the Internet. He did a project with a 5.0 bored and stroked to 347. I know very little about the 347 "conversion". I say conversion because, as I understand it, this was never a stock displacement offered by Ford Motor Company. What is the significance of the 347?

Chris, if I'd known you 25 years ago, you would be driving that '38 Special with its newly rebuilt and hopped up 320, electronic ignition, dual voltage electrical system, "genernator", and maybe with AC. Those are very nice cars when they are right, very driveable. Use a Dynaflow rear end, up to 1953 to give higher rear end gearing so the pistons won't swap holes at about 90 mph. Insert bearings, three-angle valve job, higher compression, electric fuel pump, compound carburetion, dual exhaust would help as well. Does yours have side mounted spare tires? It's possible to put 300 horses to the pavement at prices that won't break your budget with a properly "done" big 320......

I have a friend who just finished a '38 Special in Texas. Much like I described above. The only part externally that is not 100% correct is that he used 15" Roadmaster wheels in place of the 16" Special wheels. Nobody who doesn't know better can tell the difference. The thing looks like a standard old '38 Buick, but it runs like a scalded dog....

TC Chris wrote: ↑Thu Jun 12, 2025 3:46 am If it makes you feel any better, I bought a 1938 Buick in 1966 and it remains "in progress" (a phrase meaning "not moving very fast").

Chris Campbell

I have to smile when I read that because I know where you're coming from. It really doesn't make me feel any better except for knowing that there are other procrastinators out there that are as bad as I am.

What model is your 38 Buick? My dad had, if I'm remembering correctly a 40s Buick with a straight eight. The back end on that thing was huge.

electra225 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 12, 2025 7:32 pm I follow a Mustang restorer on the Internet. He did a project with a 5.0 bored and stroked to 347. I know very little about the 347 "conversion". I say conversion because, as I understand it, this was never a stock displacement offered by Ford Motor Company. What is the significance of the 347?

Chris, if I'd known you 25 years ago, you would be driving that '38 Special with its newly rebuilt and hopped up 320, electronic ignition, dual voltage electrical system, "genernator", and maybe with AC. Those are very nice cars when they are right, very driveable. Use a Dynaflow rear end, up to 1953 to give higher rear end gearing so the pistons won't swap holes at about 90 mph. Insert bearings, three-angle valve job, higher compression, electric fuel pump, compound carburetion, dual exhaust would help as well. Does yours have side mounted spare tires? It's possible to put 300 horses to the pavement at prices that won't break your budget with a properly "done" big 320......

I have a friend who just finished a '38 Special in Texas. Much like I described above. The only part externally that is not 100% correct is that he used 15" Roadmaster wheels in place of the 16" Special wheels. Nobody who doesn't know better can tell the difference. The thing looks like a standard old '38 Buick, but it runs like a scalded dog....

The Mustang restorer you follow isn't Rusty Gillis, is it? A 347 is a 5.0 or 302 bored to 4.030" and a 3.400" stroke. I put some nice heads on mine, and I didn't go wild on the cam so it should put out a little over 400 hp. Hopefully I'll be able to get by with a stock converter. Probably too much for a car as light as the Mustang.

danrclem wrote: ↑Thu Jun 12, 2025 10:09 pm
What model is your 38 Buick? My dad had, if I'm remembering correctly a 40s Buick with a straight eight. The back end on that thing was huge.

My '38 is probably the most common, a 4-door trunkback Special. It has 60-something K miles on it. When I got it, the rocker arm pivot tube that supplies oil was solid with congealed crud. No oil to the rocker arms. I had a couple of the connecting rods re-babbitted because they had eroding material. I removed a few main bearing shims to get them in tolerance. Replaced the rings (did not check and file end clearance, but they did go in). My excuse was "young and stupid," which is marginally worse than old & stupid.

Chris Campbell

Danny, the guy I follow is called Kiwi. He is British/Australian, something like that. He has a British accent. I wished I lived closer. I think he is in Tennessee. I'd let him work on my old Buick. 400 horses should be more than sufficient to warm up most any Mustang......