Ortofon VMS 20e Mk II cartridge

[electra225]

I recently acquired one of these cartridges. I've wanted a audiophile grade cartridge for some time. This cartridge is highly regarded. I wanted to use it on my Accurion DJ turntable to replace the Stanton 500 that I like so well. Research tells me that using this cartridge on a DJ turntable would be like using a Rolls Royce hood ornament on a farm truck. I have an Audio Technica turntable that is more highly regarded in audiophile circles, so I may use it instead. I don't have a decent headshell. I have one, but it is chintzy looking. I'm guessing that Gary might not be the best source for a decent headshell, so I have been looking elsewhere. I haven't mounted a cartridge in a headshell before. I'm guessing it needs to be flat so the needle runs and tracks properly. I see there are plastic shims you use between the cartridge and headshell so the cartridge runs correctly. I'm super excited to have this cartridge and I want to set it up properly. I'm needing some coaching. What would be a source for a good headshell? What parts and pieces do I need to install it correctly? I see this cartridge runs at .8 grams to 1.2 grams, so that is really light. Is there a color code for left and right positive and left and right negative on cartridges? Is this color code universal or does it vary with manufacturers? This one has a blue, a green, a red and a white code on the pins. What say ye wise ones?

[danrclem]

I ain't a wise one when it comes to turntables and for that matter, lots of other things. A year ago or so I found an excellent video on YouTube about how to set up a turntable but unfortunately, I don't remember which one it was.

I have a Technics SL-1200 MKII and the rear of the tonearm where it pivots can be raised or lowered so if your turntable has that feature, you could level it without the plastic shims. I would think that the wire color code would be universal but I'm sure there are exceptions. You might have to research your turntable model and see what they say about it. You might be able to find some information here. https://www.vinylengine.com/library/aud ... nica.shtml

There are printable protractors on the internet that you can print out for free. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=turntable+pro ... ble&ia=web

I know lots of people love turntables but I haven't been able to as get detailed sound out of them as I would like. I have a decent turntable and a decent cartridge but it definitely isn't magic for me. I haven't ever bought a new stylus so that may be where my problem lies. I'd love to hear a good turntable setup just to see what it would sound like. CDs are usually more detailed (to me anyway) but a lot of them sound too shrill. I guess nothing is perfect. CDs are really easy to use though and they aren't as fragile as vinyl.

[electra225]

I have several "good" turntables. I mis-spoke earlier when I said I had an Audio Technica turntable. It is a Technics turntable with an Audio Technica cartridge. It's probably the "best" turntable I have, but is not my favorite. That honor goes to an Accurion DJ turntable I bought at an auction in Missouri for $3. When I got it, it still had the plastic cover over the cartridge like they have when they are shipped new. I use this turntable for when I digitize my old records. It has a Stanton 500 cartridge and I just like how it sounds. I have it tracking at about 3 grams. My goal is to have two cartridges, the Ortofon and the Stanton that I can interchange in that turntable then see which one I like better. To see if there is a REAL, honest difference I can hear between a "regular" cartridge and a really nice, audiophile grade cartridge.

I read about the protractor I will need. I also learned that the wiring is universal. And that cartridges and headshells are essentially universal fitting. I don't know whether one should realign a cartridge when it is installed into a differnt tone arm or not. I think I have the basics down, so I can find a headshell and get to work. Wish me luck, I'll sure need it.

[William]

In the world of VM, the color of the wires from the cartridge to the changer are red, which is RH, white, which is LH and black which is common. I am pretty sure red is always RH and while is always LH, but when there are 4 wires I am not sure of the color code for common. I just Googled it and this is what I found.

The standard color code for phono cartridge wiring is: White = Left Positive, Blue = Left Negative, Red = Right Positive, and Green = Right Negative. If your cartridge is not color-coded, you can use this guide to connect the wires.

Bill

[TC Chris]

Bill got the color code.

As to setup, there are several issues. There's azimuth--level left-to-right looking from the front. Then stylus rake angle, the angle of the stylus tip to the surface. Some tonearms can be adjusted up/down at the back pivot end to address this. Or use shims. The quick version is just to get the cartridge parallel to the surface of the record when playing, looked at from the side. Then there is the tangential issue. Because the arm pivots, the stylus rotates slightly from lead-in groove to the end of the record. That's where the specialized protractors come in. Sometimes the turntable specs include stylus overhang, how far the tip passes the center of the platter. This is more significant for a non-spherical stylus.

That said, I've never worried too much about these issues. Maybe I should.

Chris Campbell

[William]

I seem to remember some time ago the cartridge wiring color code was discussed and if memory serves it was you, Chris, that provided the correct color codes. I kind of remember that post of yours so I went Googling and found what you wrote before. I am actually surprised that I remembered, that does not happen often anymore.

Bill

[electra225]

The protractor I need can be downloaded and printed, if I read right. I have a mirror to check the azimuth (proud of me, Chris, that I know this big word? )and I already have a gram scale. I have a lightweight level I can use to check that the tone arm is level. Like you, Chris, I never paid any attention to this stuff outside of needle condition and tone arm weight.

[TC Chris]

I've actually been meaning to try a proper set-up, but somebody has shorted us on the number of available hours in the day.

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

I find less time to tinker in the shop here lately than I'd like. Sometimes, life gets in the way of our good intentions.

[electra225]

I ran across this excellent video. Maybe it will answer some questions we may have. He doesn't mention the azimuth adjustment, making sure the needle is running perfectly vertically.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WM-aIDwfrhc

[electra225]

Would this alignment kit be what I need to align cartridges? If not, what do you recommend?

https://www.amazon.com/Mobile-Pro-Shop- ... JDW6&psc=1

[TC Chris]

I'll bet that it produces a more accurate result than my eyeball technique. And some of the high end kits are way more expensive. But then they are targeting people who will spend more on a cable than I have spent on my whole system.

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

Even considering buying this type of equipment seems foreign to me, to be perfectly honest. I never thought I'd get interested in the "higher end" of audio equipment, always figured it was like buying a Bentley when a Falcon would serve perfectly well. I want to learn a "different way of doing things" if that makes any sense. I still need to get it straight in my mind the difference between how a turntable works and how a changer works. A turntable cartridge has to have all kinds of "critical" adjustments in order to run correctly. The cartridge in a changer works differently for every record it plays. It does not run perfectly vertical. It doesn't plow the last record on the stack of, say, six records, neither does it mis-track the first record. If all the "audiophile" adjustments are so important, why do they not apply to a changer cartridge? I'm having trouble wrapping my head around this issue.....

[danrclem]

I believe that a changer is a compromise even though they can still sound good. I think a turntable could sound better if all of the adjustments are spot on but so far, I haven't been able to adjust mine so that it produces the magic. It might be like a race car where they adjust the suspension to get the best results, but I doubt if the average person could tell the difference in small adjustments. I know some people can adjust carburetor jets and whatever to get better results. My senses just aren't good enough to be able to tell the differences in small carburetor adjustments.

If you ever do find the magic be sure to let me know and I might try to get mine working better.

[electra225]

I've been watching YouTube videos on this subject. I will admit right up front that I know nothing, so I may be impressed with less than stellar advice. They all are pretty much saying the same thing, they give different details in almost every video so I can get a good overall picture of what needs to be done. The tools needed aren't all that expensive if you don't buy "the brands". A genuine Ortofon protractor is around $40, while a generic protractor is less than $15. I don't see a difference. I think I'll use my Stereo Festival receiver for the amp, the Fisher STV-880 speakers and will probably set up my Accurion DJ turntable with the "good" cartridges. I think I'll buy a pack of 4 ''Technics" headshells for $28. You can give silly money for headshells, but, again, I don't see the benefit. I found some white plastic at the store in the trash that I think will make good shim stock. If they show, I can paint the edges black with a magic marker. I can use 3X5 card stock for smaller shims. You are sure welcome to follow my fumbling and jump in with comments and suggestions. I'll need lots of help......