Whimsical Suitcase

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

I came across this late 1960's Symphonic mono player.

It really is a suitcase record player.

It came Including keys for the locks.
It was originally battery and AC powered, but
the battery tube cover is gone.

It has the BSR UA-25 mini changer which is
not bound up by grease. Good indication of
an easy clean up.
The speed control needs a tweak, as 33.3 RPM
idler speed is currently at the 16 RPM lever setting.

The mono cartridge works.

I found the schematic for it, and the filter cap
is quiet for now.
I don't seem to get any effect from the tone control,
but I'll first clean out that pot and the volume pot.

This will be a fun starter player for some young folk.

[electra225]

I don't recall seeing one like that before. Interesting. How does it sound?

[William]

It looks like a piece of Samsonite luggage from the 70's. How cool is that.

Bill

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

It looks like a piece of Samsonite luggage from the 70's. How cool is that.

Bill

I don't recall seeing one like that before. Interesting. How does it sound?

The sound isn't going to be great Greg, as there's only a 4 inch speaker in it.
I have to unsolder the AC plug wiring to take the amp out to
clean the pots.
I'm starting on the changer, then check the amp out. Someone's been
in it before me.

Bill, yes, I couldn't remember Samsonite's name.
But that's exactly what I thought of when I saw it.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Well, this is an unpleasant surprise.
I wondered why this record player was set on 16 RPM.

After cleaning the changer, replacing the idler with a spare,
cleaning the controls, and a new stylus, I tried it out.

The motor has a replaceable brass stepped speed turret,
with 2 set screws to hold it on the rotor shaft.

The smallest diameter step of the turret somewhat
matches 33.3 RPM, but it's too slow.
Normally, that would be the 16 RPM setting.

I think this is a 50 Hz turret, which for who knows why, was
put on this motor.

I don't have a lathe, or the skill to do that work, to
reduce the "33.3" step on the brass speed turret.
It sounds like it's close to a 45 RPM speed.

Otherwise, the amplifier does the job, and the tone
control now works OK.

I have spare BSR motors, but this one runs on 9 volts.
Any way I could wire in a replacement to run on 120 V ?

Greg, I tried to post a one page pdf of the schematic, but
apparently those files are not accepted ?
Any way to change it so pdf files can be posted ?

[electra225]

I'll check. Probably another default setting that's not going to work......

[electra225]

I changed the pdf permissions from "documents" to "downloadable files". See if that helps.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

I changed the pdf permissions from "documents" to "downloadable files". See if that helps.

Hi Greg,
No I still could not load the pdf. I'll convert the file to a photo.
Thanks.

[electra225]

I changed the setting to back like it was. The maximum filesize is 256 Kib. Is your pdf file larger than that? We may need to increase the filesize value.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

I changed the setting to back like it was. The maximum filesize is 256 Kib. Is your pdf file larger than that? We may need to increase the filesize value.

I made sure the pdf size was below 256Kb.

[electra225]

Then it should work. I've got everything set like the "experts" say is right. I'd try one of my files, but they are on my old computer, in storage......

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Well, this is an unpleasant surprise.
I wondered why this record player was set on 16 RPM.

The motor has a replaceable brass stepped speed turret,
with 2 set screws to hold it on the rotor shaft.

The smallest diameter step of the turret somewhat
matches 33.3 RPM, but it's too slow.
Normally, that would be the 16 RPM setting.

I think this is a 50 Hz turret, which for who knows why, was
put on this motor.

I have spare BSR motors, but this one runs on 9 volts.
Any way I could wire in a replacement to run on 120 V ?

I am including the schematic here.

The BSR 120 VAC motor I have has the same size mount
bracket. It fits perfectly in the old mount location.
The platter working diameter is the same in all these BSR's
at 7 inches wide, so that's cool, too.

If I wire the replacement motor to 120 VAC, then
the On/OFf switch would be located on the AC IN side of
power transformer T1.

Then take the rectified lead coming from diodes X1/X2 and
wire it right on C1 electrolytic.
Trim off the now extraneous old motor wires.

Does this seem functionally correct ?

[electra225]

Yeah, you'd have to run the power switch ahead of the PT, then wire around the AC/DC switch. Then send the rectified DC from the rectifiers to the first filter cap. Looks like that should work. You might need a more robust power switch than the one there to operate on 120 volts.

[TC Chris]

Back to the speed problem. I was dubious that a small frequency difference would halve the speed. I found this online:
To calculate RPM for an AC induction motor, you multiply the frequency in Hertz (Hz) by 60 — for the number of seconds in a minute — by two for the negative and positive pulses in a cycle. You then divide by the number of poles the motor has: (Hz x 60 x 2) / number of poles = no-load RPM.

I'm guessing that you have some other problem. Is the 9V motor an AC motor? Have you lubed up the motor bearings and all other bearings?

I've got an old Garrard RC-80 that ran fast. That's a puzzler.

Chris Campbell

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Yeah, you'd have to run the power switch ahead of the PT, then wire around the AC/DC switch.
Then send the rectified DC from the rectifiers to the first filter cap. Looks like that should work. You might need a more robust power switch than the one there to operate on 120 volts.

RE: switch. These BSRs come with a plunger type switch that
came already wired onto the AC 120 V motor I will substitute.
So no problem with that.

Back to the speed problem. I'm guessing that you have some other problem. Is the 9V motor an AC motor?
Have you lubed up the motor bearings and all other bearings?
IChris Campbell

RE: Motor. Motor is DC, running off of battery or rectified AC,
per the schematic.
I cleaned and lubed the motor. It runs very noisily.
I'm going with the 120 VAC BSR motor substitute.

QUESTIONS:
I'm removing On/Off switch S2, Battery M1, and
the 9V motor from that part of the circuit.

I'm a bit confused as to how the X1X2 rectified voltage
connects and enters the circuit.

I see DC voltage originally connects to the record changer
switch S2, and it connects to the positive side of
the battery supply.
Does the DC voltage travel across the batteries' connection ?

Should I wire a ground (chassis in this case) connection
to that leg of the DC voltage ?
S2 switch diagram indicates DC voltage goes to ground.

[electra225]

The "AC" terminal on S1 is actually B+ from the rectifiers. I might suggest removing S1 and just connecting B+ directly to the filter caps. And, yes, basically, the voltage from the power transformer (+ terminal of rectifiers) flows thru the battery. 7.4 VDC comes from the rectifiers to the 9 VDC battery. The positive terminal of the battery and the rectifiers connect to common negative, a rather different arrangement. The center tap of the power transformer supplies B+ to the filters. You should maintain the connection from the + terminals of the rectifiers to ground, at S2. I would remove S1, S2, M1, and the phono motor.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Wow, that was a great clear explanation, Greg.

I really appreciate it.

This Symphonic gal reminds me of a 1953 Webcor record player
in a side table, that I worked on.
The Webcor had a power transformer for a 5Y3 rectifier, but the
tube filaments were run off of line AC.

This is fun learning for me and adds to my limited electronics
knowledge base.

[electra225]

You are doing fine! We are here to share your projects and help when we can. I'm enjoying your project as much as you are.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

The Symphonic Samsonite is ready for travel.

A nice thing I discovered is there is a
terminal strip where the wiring
I needed to alter is wired in.

That AC/battery switch was already
wired to C1 with the center tap from the
power tranny, when in the AC position.

The ground point to use for the B+ rectified
voltage was right next to where both
rectifiers' positive ends were wired on the strip.
In photo, rectifiers are the 2 little green men.

I cut off the orange wire in the lower part
of the photo that went to the On/Off switch
of the original motor wiring.
I left a 2 inch pigtail which I wrapped around
the ground post of the terminal strip, and soldered in.
Voila', I had sound !

Then I took a BSR donor 120 VAC motor with its
switch already wired on.
Cleaned the motor, and it fit perfectly on the mini-changer base.
It had a female Amplok connector on its wiring, and I
used the male Amplok disconnected from
the original DC wiring scheme.

The output seemed a bit low. I checked the stylus and
it was not seated well in the cartridge rubber saddle.
Now output is pretty good.

Enjoying an LP test listen to “Whipped Cream and Other Delights”
by Herb Alpert and the TB.
Not bad at all !

[electra225]

Looks good! Congratulations on bringing a unique piece back to life.