Engine rebuilds

[TC Chris]

As a guy who's still working at an advanced age, I find myself in the position of being able to finance projects that I couldn't when I was still on one income and saving for retirement. My old high school buddy whose Barracuda is stored next to my Chevy and '65 Olds has had his engine and transmission rebuilt by a local guy who does performance engines. The thought entered my brain that maybe he'd do either the Olds engine or the '38 Buick engine. Both of them need transmission attention--the Buick needs a clutch plate and the Olds would likely need a Turbohydramatic rebuild just from age and the abuse of my youthful heavy foot.

Maybe you car guys have thoughts about using a local guy who comes recommended vs a specialized shop elsewhere. My Chevy engine guy has retired. I was pleased with his engine work but now he has sold his shop.

And the other question is whether to do the '65 or the '38 first. I'm inclined toward the '65 first because the '38 is partly done (rings, one connecting rod rebabbited, main bearings re-shimmed, rocker arm shaft oil supply restored, valves lapped). I could probably get that running, but the clutch maybe not.

Thoughts?

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

I used a guy in California to rebuild Buick Straight 8's. He treated one like it was his baby, knew each one, followed their lives after they left his shop. He converted all straight 8's post-1936 to insert rod and main bearings, hydraulic valve lifters, three-angle valve jobs, and a stainless steel water distribution tube. The 320's, starting with the Dynaflow engines in 1948 were so equipped. The smaller engines got these improvements starting in 1949. If he did the R&R work in his shop, he would include a 12-volt conversion of the electrical system, an electric fuel pump, and electronic ignition as part of the package. He also liked Compound Carburetion and dual exhaust systems.

Chris, you gotta be careful. People who know these engines are getting in short supply. My advice would be to contact the Michigan division of the Buick Club of America, or the '37-'38 Division of the BCA and see who their local Michigan straight 8 guru is currently. There are pitfalls aplenty when you delve into an old straight 8. They are well-built engines, live a long life and will tolerate considerable abuse, but they are antique technology. The crankcase ventilation system is archaic and if not set up properly cause oil burning and all kinds of issues. If you get too much or too little oil to the upper end, you have issues. I would strongly recommend an insert bearing conversion. More cost, sure, but the engine will run better, have more power and live longer. Good rebabbiting has gone the way of TV repair shops. Ditto hydraulic valve lifters. And a 12-volt conversion with electronic ignition. Put a Pertronix cockroach in the distributor. That will help with cold starts and will go a long way to prevent hard hot starting due to vapor lock. That is the Achilles Heel of a Buick Straight 8 running on 6 volts. Hard hot starts. Spinning the engine faster helps. Rewind the generator for 12 volts leave the starter 6 volt. Bottom line is to find someone who knows these engines and can advise you what is best in your situation. The Olds V-8 is not as old as the straight 8 Buick, but it can get messed up if someone digs in who doesn't know the engine and how to best address issues he sees. Get ready for sticker shock. The reason people transplant older V-8's with LS crate motors is cost. I heard a guy the other day who paid $7500 to have a 327 Chevy rebuilt. I also have a friend with a '62 Wildcat who just paid almost $10,000 to have his 401 rebuilt. Parts for our beloved old cars are out of sight in price. I remember when you could buy a 327 crate motor for $700 brand new from GM with a warranty. I paid $600 to have the Dynaflow rebuilt in my Buick in 1995. I have no idea if you can even get one rebuilt in Phoenix anymore at any price. Good luck.