Magnavox TP-241D record player cabinet restoration

[electra225]

I have the tone arm and the overarm back on. Now the changer won't work. It will drop the record, return the tone arm to rest, and that's it. I can play a record manually. It will shut off if the overarm is by the spindle. Sometimes, when I try to play a record manually, it will return the tone arm to rest. I messed it up. It worked beautifully, but, oh no, I had to take it apart to paint it.

The cartridge wiring is not binding. I have not let the mechanicals suppport the weight. I have it back together right. I took pictures before I took it apart. I'm sure it's somthing simple.

[electra225]

I managed to get the lid back on the cabinet. The attachment method I came up with for the hinges worked out fantastically. Well satisfied with that. I have the lower latches to install yet, then the hardware will all be back on. I still have to come up with a Magnavox script for the grille.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Greg,
Without seeing the changer in person, I will offer this.

1. The trip finger cam and shaft assembly must be
located correctly on the locator and bushing assembly.

2. Below is Ed's master class on a complete tear-down of
a Zenith branded V-M 1210A.

His photos are supremely helpful for reviewing what
you did.

https://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewto ... ion+zenith

[electra225]

I messed up. I learned something, though. When you put stuff back together, you need to put in all the parts. No problem. You also need to put those parts back in their proper orientation. Therein lies the rub......

I learned that rebuilding a changer is like rebuilding a carburetor. They put stuff in a certain position for a reason. One teensy, tiny little part not in the right place screws everything up. There is a nut, a spring and a spacer thingy that holds the tone arm on. You remove the nut with a 7/16 socket, hope that spring doesn't fly across the room, then remove the spacer thingy. I took pictures of everything, how the wire runs, how the nut goes, all that. I did not take a good picture of the spacer thingy. It will go in 180 degrees reversed and upside down. You can hook the spring on the large tang or the small tang, depending on how you orient the spacer thingy. The problem is, if that spacer thingy is not oriented correctly, all "deleted" breaks loose as far as how the changer works. I KNEW when I took it apart, the little end of the spring went on the small tang. I couldn't get it to go back that way to save my soul. The service manual for that changer absolutely sucks when it comes to troubleshooting. It is written for people who know what they are doing and it is also written assuming no work has been done to it. The problem I was having was likely something to do with being stuck on reject. Actually, it was because I put the spacer thingy back in 180 degrees reversed and upside down. The reason I couldn't get it to go on like I knew it went is because the squared rod that turn the tone arm had fallen down about 1/4 of an inch. I not only had the spacer in wrong, but the rod was not sucked up properly, which let the arms and doodads it controlled be out of position. When I put the tone arm on a record manually, the changer thought it was at the end of the record, so it cycled the changer and put the tone arm on its rest. I conferred with MR. VM and he immediately ask me about the spacer thingy. There was no doubt what the issue was then. I took it back apart, put some steno pads under the rod that controls the tone arm to hold it up, reversed the spacer, put the nut on finger tight, making sure it had full threads, then installed the spring and tightened up the bolt a fuzz past just snug. I aslo VERY lightly lubed the inside of the tone arm mounting so it wouldn't stick on that shaft and push it down. The changer works as well as it ever did, the paint looks nice, it's ready to go back into the cabinet. I found some feet for the cabinet at Home Depot that will work fine. I'll get those on then put the changer into the cabinet.

Thanks, Mr. Mogul for your input. Your suggestion #1 was the problem I was having. I'm not sure I explained it right.

[William]

Thanks, Mr. Mogul that is awesome. I'm glad someone took to the time to do the step by step on how to service a VM changer. I did it the hard way, by just taking it apart, cleaning, lubing and then reassemble. The first couple of times I made mistakes but with perseverance, and just being stubborn I finally got the hang of it. Collaros are another matter. They scare me!

Bill

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Greg,
What you describe is one of the most difficult
things about V-M changers on the re-assembly.
I'm very glad you and Bill worked it out.

In my early days, like Bill, I created the same problem
you had.
I finally learned to leave the parts in a separate space on a
piece of white paper, laid out in the exact order
removed from whatever area I was working on.

And, BTW, that goes double for a Collaro, ha ha !!!

Bill, everyone over at ARF Phonos worth their salt,
thanks Ed daily for his generosity of posting that
topic.

[electra225]

Thanks for the information, Mr. Mogul. I'm not quite comfortable enough yet to take one all apart. That is coming, I'm sure. I had record changers, guitar amps, church organs and two-cycle engines on the list of things I don't mess with, ever. Since I collect record players, my attitude towards changers needs to be modified a tad. I actually enjoyed tinkering with this one. I wasn't so thrilled to have killed it, but I learned from it and you can be sure I'll never forget that part. I haven't found a 45 adapter yet, and I need a Magnavox script for the grille. There is a script on ebay for over $20. I need to look around a little more. The last one I bought was for the Stereo Theater, from a member of this forum, for $3. That seems more reasonable. If you have a good tall-spindle (4") 45 adapter you would care to sell, I might be a buyer. Thanks to both of you for your kind assistance with this.

[electra225]

This is a test.....

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

So Greg,
I see the record changer is now G-M, V-M factory spec !!!!

Great job there, friend.

[electra225]

That green thing that weighs 840 pounds would make a powerful record player motor. Put that baby in a portable, you have to be a moose to carry it......

[Ken Doyle]

Two fine looking machines you have there.

[William]

I agree, Ken.

Bill

[electra225]

Thank you. I posted those two pictures to see if Elton's problem of posting pictures sideways was a forum hitch or something else. Roger wanted a picture of the engine in the Buick, so, if he stands on his head, he should have an idea what it looks like.

[electra225]

I am finally almost done. I decided to post some pictures. You will notice that I'm missing the "Magnavox" script in the speaker grille. I am not going to pay $25 plus shipping for that item. The plan at this point is to see if the guy who made the decal for the lid will make a Magnavox script on his 3D printer. I have a platter mat, trim ring and a needle ordered from Gary, but that doesn't need to hold up progress. I was tired of storing the parts, so I decided to put it together and enjoy it a bit. The needle is 99% shot, so 78's are all I can play until I get the new needle.

I reversed the colors. Instead of fawn with green trim, it's now the other way around. The Masonite panel in front of the changer was beat up, so I painted it. I still don't like the brown power cord, but that's how they built it. It sounds wonderful, even with a bum needle. When I get the new platter mat, I'll add a picture of that. The record I'm playing is the best one I own, content and condition. A Capitol 78 of Les Paul and Mary Ford "Take Me In Your Arms And Hold Me". I painted the handle and grille tan. There was nothing on this cabinet that is gray or silver. The paint I used on the tone arm, over arm, grille and handle was Rust-Oleum Smoky Beige Satin and the dark brown is Rust-Oleum Leather Brown gloss. If the colors are not dead on, they are REALLY close. Both colors available at Walmart. The rubber feet for the bottom of the cabinet came from Home Depot. They are a nudge spendy, six bucks and something for the four, but they are soft and easily acquired. ACE hardware has some, but I liked these better. I was well-satisfied with the Tolex and Tolex glue I got from AES. That's an independent bunch, but, as long as you don't ask questions, I'd recommend their Tolex. I think there is better Tolex glue available, such as regular old contact cement, but this stuff is water-soluble and is not fumy. AES had the best prices and I didn't have to pay shipping. The incursion of the dark Tolex in the corners is something I took "artistic liberty" with. The lid was done like that at the factory. Somebody had covered it with white wallpaper-like stuff. The original fold-over of the darker colors was between 1/4" and 3/8" depending on where you measured. They had stapled it to keep it down. I extended that amount to 1/2" on both the lid and the bottom. This gave enough length for the glue to hold it down without staples, giving a cleaner look. The way they made the corners of the cabinet gives no good place to terminate the different lengths of Tolex. Gluing a piece of the darker colors in the corners hide the joints in the white. This is not the easiest cabinet for a first project. The Masonite panel in front of the changer probably would be better painted with satin paint. I was not going to spring for a can of paint just for that. I used the gloss Leather Brown, which is a touch gawdy, but I like it. Gives a clean look. Also I used a hair dryer to heat and shrink the Tolex on the edges and corners. Again, I didn't want to buy a heat gun just for this project. A hair dryer really doesn't get hot enough. The good part is you won't overheat the material, and it worked okay, just took a long time. If I decide to do another Tolex project, I'll buy a heat gun. You need something to heat shrink the Tolex or your edges and corners will look ragged. Another suggestion, if I may. Don't watch YouTube videos then expect to know how to apply Tolex. It's like making dumplings. There is no right or wrong way to do it, just dive in and let 'er rip. Practice first with masking paper or wrapping paper and masking tape making joints and cuts. Then dive in. You can make adjustments and "CYA" moves as you work. Have a plan, work deliberately and have fun!

[Ken Doyle]

Man, that's the cat's pajamas!

[hermitcrab]

Great Job Greg!...looks like old new stock!

[William]

Wow, I would never recognize it as the one I saw two years ago. Beautifully done, you should be proud.

Bill

[electra225]

Thank you all for your kind words. This one is special. It was a good-performing record player, just a bit beat up. Black mold, broken/split/coming apart at the seams cabinet. It turned out nice and I learned a lot. I think the next one I'll do is one of Don's stereos, the GE RP-1590. The speaker cabinets on it aren't perfectly square, they have a bend in the backs. It has several decals that will have to be reproduced. I see these smaller instruments advertised for sale for $500-$600. I figured somebody was fishing for a sucker. In reality, if someone has restored one of these to the extent I've done this one, they won't make any money, and may not break even at that price. I have more money out of pocket in this record player than I do in my Concert Grand. When you do cabinet work, the price goes up substantially. I'm thrilled I had the opportunity to do this restoration. I thank everyone for their help and encouragement.

[TC Chris]

Wow, just superb. What a fine result! Can you do a YouTube video so we can hear it too?

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

I have never done a YouTube video in my life, wouldn't have the slightest idea how to proceed. What do I need to do one? If you want to know how it sounds, ask Bill......

Seriously, thanks for the kind words. All the fussing and fiddling I did with wood prep on the cabinet paid dividends.